CITY VENTURES: PITTSBURGH, PA
- Christopher Roche
- Feb 6
- 11 min read
“Pittsburgh is a city of neighborhoods, each with its own rites and rituals; a patchwork of cultures that took place over a century ago.” - Anthony Bourdain
Introduction
I couldn’t agree more with Bourdain. His book World Travel: An Irreverent Guide offers sharp insights into food, culture, and adventure, all told through the lens of a legend.
Pittsburgh is a city where every neighborhood tells a different story.
Whether you're seeking world-class art, hunting down the perfect pastrami sandwich, or simply eager to lose yourself in urban neighborhoods thick with character, Pittsburgh delivers.
So, if you ever find yourself in this city—whether for a weekend trip or the start of a new chapter—congratulations. You’re in for something special. This guide is here to help you navigate a city with a deep history, an undeniable heart, and a whole lot of incredible food.
When to go:
Late summer and fall are the ideal seasons to visit Pittsburgh. The weather is perfect for strolling through the city’s neighborhoods, where every shop, eatery, and corner store feels like part of the city’s ever-evolving story.
Nestled between the Ohio, Allegheny, and Monongahela Rivers, Pittsburgh transforms once November arrives. Temperatures drop fast, and winter settles in quickly, but that shift brings its own kind of charm—cozy cafés, hearty local dishes, and a city that embraces the cold with open arms.
But don’t let the chill keep you away. Winter in Pittsburgh is full of hidden warmth—bustling indoor markets, world-class museums, and festive holiday lights reflecting off the city’s iconic bridges. If you’re willing to bundle up, you’ll find a whole new side of the Steel City waiting to be explored.
What to eat
Pittsburgh is a city that takes its food seriously. I spent November working and exploring its neighborhoods, following local recommendations that never steered me wrong. My pocket notebook filled up fast—each entry a delicious chapter in the city's culinary story.
When it comes to food, the best experiences don’t come from a quick Google search. Talk to locals. Ask the bartender, the barista, or the person next to you at the counter where they love to eat. That’s how you find the real gems—the neighborhood spots that don’t make every list but absolutely should.
That said, if you need a starting point, here are a few of my standouts—places that left an impression and earned a permanent spot in my notebook.
Senti Restaurant:
3473 Butler St, Pittsburgh, PA 15201 | https://sentirestaurant.com/ | ~$$
Looking for an authentic Italian meal in Pittsburgh? Head to Senti, tucked away on Butler Street in Lower Lawrenceville. With an elegant dining room, stellar service, and an impressive wine collection, it stands out in the city’s dining scene.
But let's get to the good stuff, the food.
At Senti, Executive Chef Enrico Scolari crafts a menu that celebrates the essence of Italian cuisine. Traditional flavors shine through, but there’s also a touch of innovation, keeping the menu ever-evolving and making each visit a new experience.
I started with the Arancini Cacio & Pepe—golden, crispy on the outside, topped with a light pesto sauce, and filled with a velvety, pecorino romano-packed center. Every bite delivered delicious creamy indulgence and peppery heat, a refined take on a classic.
Lasagna is always my go-to pasta dish, and Senti’s Lasagna Alla Veneta did not disappoint. Delicately layered with tender pasta, rich beef ragù, and velvety béchamel, it captures the hearty, comforting essence of Veneto’s culinary tradition. Each bite strikes a balance between rustic depth and creamy elegance—it’s the kind of dish that sticks with you long after the meal is over.
And then, of course, there’s dessert. Let’s be honest—there’s only one right choice: the Tiramisu. Senti’s version is a masterclass in balance, with espresso-soaked ladyfingers and luscious mascarpone cream creating a rich, airy indulgence. Each bite blends bold coffee notes with just the right amount of sweetness, a timeless and satisfying end to the meal.
Senti isn’t just a restaurant; it’s an experience—a celebration of Italian tradition brought to life through thoughtful service, impeccable cuisine, and a warm, inviting atmosphere. Whether it’s your first visit or your fifth, you’ll leave with a full heart—and an even fuller stomach.
Primanti Bros:
46 18th St, Pittsburgh, PA 15222 | https://primantibros.com/ |~$
Remember that "perfect pastrami sandwich" I mentioned earlier?
This is where you'll find it.
Now a Pittsburgh institution (and an incredibly popular chain across Pennsylvania), Primanti Bros. started humbly in 1933, right in the city's historic Strip District.
Founder Joe Primanti needed a sandwich with some serious staying power—one that could fuel hungry shift workers and truck drivers hustling through the city at all hours.
It’s a sandwich unlike any other, layered high with:
Creamy housemade slaw
Freshly sliced tomatoes
Thick-cut fries, straight off the grill
Your meat of choice (pastrami recommended)
Melted provolone cheese
Two thick slices of Mancini’s Italian bread
Like all great food stories, this one started by accident. According to John DiPriter, Joe Primanti’s nephew, the legend goes like this:
"One winter, someone drove up with a load of potatoes. He brought them over to the restaurant to see if they were frozen. I fried the potatoes on our grill, and they looked pretty good. A few customers asked for them—so I tossed them on the sandwich."
It wasn’t just about taste—it was practical. The everything-in-one approach meant truckers could eat with one hand and steer with the other.
And just like that, a Steel City classic was born.
Sure, you can find Primanti Bros. all over Pittsburgh now, but nothing quite compares to visiting the original shop in the heart of the Strip District.
There’s a raw charm to the place that can’t be replicated.
Walk in, grab a seat at the bar, and soak in the energy. The kitchen is a well-oiled machine, moving with effortless precision. Within minutes, a glorious, towering mess of fries, slaw, and meat will land in front of you—hot, fresh, and unapologetically Pittsburgh.
Eat your heart out, Philly cheesesteak. There’s a new legend in town.
Lola’s Eatery:
3337 Penn Ave, Pittsburgh, PA 15201 | https://lolaseatery.com/ |~$
Let’s talk breakfast.
Not the “just a cup of coffee” kind. I mean a real meal—the kind that sets the tone for the day and makes you want to stick around for a while.
Some people skip it altogether. They’ll tell you they aren’t “breakfast people.”
They’re crazy.
Luckily, Pittsburgh gets it. This city is stacked with spots serving breakfast worth waking up for.
And one, in particular, stands out: Lola’s Eatery
A Fresh Take on Brunch
In 2019, Max and Zoë Blume opened Lola’s Eatery with a vision: to bring something new to Lawrenceville’s brunch scene.
Max infuses his heritage into every dish, blending bold Mexican and Filipino flavors with breakfast staples. Meanwhile, Zoë keeps things fresh on the pastry side, rolling out rotating donuts that never miss.
The result? A brunch spot that feels as creative as it is comforting.
The Order: The Hangover Cure
When I hit Lola’s, I don’t even bother with the menu.
I know exactly what I’m ordering:
The Hangover Cure.
It’s more than a breakfast sandwich. It’s a hug in sandwich form.
Soft-scrambled eggs—creamy, rich, almost custard-like. None of that rubbery diner egg nonsense.
Melted American cheese—gooey, nostalgic, perfect.
A hit of their almost-famous Sriracha aioli—bringing just enough heat to wake you up without knocking you out.
Your choice of bread: Plain bagel, Everything bagel, or—my go-to—the Calabrian chili English muffin, which packs a subtle punch of spice.
And because breakfast without a hashbrown is a missed opportunity, I always round it out with a crispy, golden hashbrown on the side.
To top it off? A glass of fresh orange juice from Pittsburgh Juice Co., right across the street. Bright, zesty, and exactly what you need to balance out the sandwich’s savory richness.
Local supporting local. It’s the little things that make Lola’s special.
Simply put, Lola’s Eatery hits.
It’s comfort food, done right. No pretense, no fluff—just a damn good breakfast from a spot that’s earned its place in the neighborhood.
Kaibur Coffee
3138 Dobson St, Pittsburgh, PA 15219 | https://www.kaiburcoffee.com/ |~$
Everyone loves a good coffee shop. There’s something about the hum of conversation, the scent of freshly brewed coffee, and the clatter of ceramic cups that makes it the perfect place to write. I do most of my writing in coffee shops.
Now, this might sound blasphemous to some—but I’m not a coffee drinker. I know, I know. Cue the outrage.
"How can you recommend a coffee shop if you don't drink coffee?"
Simple. Because I’ve tried the hot chocolate and the food at Kaibur Coffee—and if their coffee is anywhere near as good, this place is a home run.
I first stumbled into Kaibur Coffee on a quest for three things: comics, hot chocolate, and food. My adventure started with a visit to Doomed Planet Comics (more on them later). After finding what I was looking for, I needed a spot to sit, read, and refuel. That’s when I found myself at Kaibur Coffee.
My first visit to Kaibur Coffee happened on a trek to find a local comic shop Doomed Planet Comics (more on them later) After a successful trip to the doomed planet, I stopped at Kaibur to enjoy the comic I had found along with some lunch.
I ordered a hot chocolate and a BLT, sat down, and cracked open my newly acquired Tank Girl comic.
The hot chocolate was rich, creamy, and had just the right level of sweetness.
The BLT? Served on a toasty ciabatta, with crispy bacon, fresh tomato, and a healthy helping of arugula that kept it light, peppery, and refreshing—a perfect balance of flavors.
Between the cozy atmosphere, solid food, and a hot chocolate that could convert even the most devoted coffee drinker, Kaibur Coffee proved to be the perfect spot to unwind.
Whether you're here to get some work done, dive into a good book, or just enjoy a laid-back café vibe, this place delivers.
I'll be back.
Where to stay
Pittsburgh offers a range of stays depending on what kind of experience you're looking for—whether you want easy access to major attractions, a true neighborhood feel, or something quieter.
For First-Time Visitors: Stay Downtown for Easy Access
If it's your first time in Pittsburgh, staying downtown puts you in the center of everything. You'll be within walking distance of Market Square, Point State Park, and the city's major museums.
The DoubleTree by Hilton | Book Here is a solid choice, offering comfort, convenience, and easy access to public transportation, making it simple to explore beyond downtown.
For a Local Vibe: Lawrenceville Airbnbs Are the Way to Go
If you want to experience Pittsburgh like a local, Lawrenceville is the perfect base. This vibrant, artsy neighborhood is packed with independent coffee shops, boutiques, and some of the city’s best restaurants and bars.
Airbnbs here are plentiful, from modern lofts in converted warehouses to cozy row houses with tons of character. Staying in Lawrenceville means you’ll be just a short ride from downtown but fully immersed in one of Pittsburgh’s most exciting neighborhoods.
Other Options to Consider
For a Quieter Stay: Look for an Airbnb in Squirrel Hill or Regent Square—tree-lined streets, plenty of parks, and a slower pace, perfect for those who want a more residential feel.
For an Industrial-Cool Stay: The North Side (especially around Deutschtown and the Mexican War Streets) has boutique hotels and loft-style rentals that put you near breweries, museums, and PNC Park.
Where you stay in Pittsburgh depends on what kind of trip you want—but whether you're in the heart of downtown or nestled in a local neighborhood, there's no shortage of great options.
What to See and Where to Shop
Iron City Boulders
143 51st St. Pittsburgh, PA 15201 |https://ironcityboulders.com/
Iron City Boulders became one of my regular stops while I was in Pittsburgh for the month—and for good reason. The space is immaculately clean, filled with a variety of climbing routes, and backed by an incredibly welcoming community.
Whether you're a seasoned climber or just getting started, you’ll feel at home here. Beyond the walls, they offer yoga classes and a full-weight gym, making it a solid spot for training or just getting a great workout in between exploring the city.
Doomed Planet Comics
3138 Dobson St. Pittsburgh, PA 15219 |https://www.doomedplanetcomics.com/
If you’ve got an itch to discover something new, Doomed Planet Comics is the place to scratch it.
This shop is packed with local and hard-to-find comics, with a special focus on single issues by Pittsburgh-based artists and writers. It’s a haven for anyone looking to branch out beyond the mainstream and find unique stories that might otherwise fly under the radar.
Attic Records
513 Grant Ave, Millvale, PA 15209 | https://www.atticrecordstoreinc.com/
I could spend hours in this record store—and I have.
Attic Records is a true crate-digger’s paradise, stocked with everything from De La Soul to Dean Martin to The Fratellis. As someone who listens to just about everything, that’s a dangerous combination of records to have all in one place.
Whether you're after vintage vinyl, CDs, or something new, this shop has something for everyone. The selection is top-tier, the atmosphere is effortlessly cool, and if you’re anything like me, you’ll probably leave with more than you planned.
Carnegie Museum of Art and Natural History
4400 Forbes Ave, Pittsburgh, PA 15213 | https://carnegiemuseums.org/
I’m a sucker for a good museum, and this one does not disappoint.
Featuring both rotating and standing world-class exhibitions, you could spend hours (or days) exploring its halls and still have more to see. As a geologist, I always gravitate toward the natural history sections, but the art galleries are just as essential.
If you’ve got the time, I’d recommend multiple visits—there’s simply too much to take in all at once.
The Strip District
If there’s one neighborhood that defines the Pittsburgh experience, it’s the Strip. This is where it happens—an energetic mix of history, culture, and some of the city’s best food and shopping.
Yinzers – The one-stop shop for official Pittsburgh sports memorabilia and black-and-gold swag.
Mancini’s Bread – Home of the legendary Italian bread featured on the iconic Primanti Bros sandwich. Pro tip: their cinnamon raisin bread makes an unreal breakfast.
Penzeys Spices – Whether you're a pro chef or just love to cook, this place has every spice imaginable to elevate your kitchen game.
And beyond that? The near-endless list of specialty grocers, bakeries, and markets will have you exploring for hours—and coming back to stock up on whatever you missed the first time.
Closing Thoughts
Pittsburgh is a city that reveals itself through experience. It’s a place best explored at street level—wandering through its neighborhoods, popping into shops that catch your eye, and following the scent of something incredible coming from a hole-in-the-wall restaurant you’ve never heard of.
This guide? It’s just a starting point. A curated list of places that caught my attention, places I kept returning to, and places that made me feel something. But the best part about traveling—about exploring—is that no two experiences are the same. The real adventure comes from discovering your favorites, finding the hidden spots that don’t make the lists, and seeing the city through your lens.
I’m not a Pittsburgh expert—I’ve only spent a month here—but I don’t think you need to be an expert to share what you love. That's the whole reason The Modern Xplorer exists—to document, to recommend, and to share the things that make me stop and appreciate where I am.
If this guide helps someone find a new favorite place, inspires a detour, or even just sparks curiosity about what Pittsburgh has to offer, then it’s done its job.
So take this as an invitation. Step off the beaten path, follow what interests you, and let the city surprise you. Because that’s what makes travel—whether it’s across the world or just a few hours from home—worth it.
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